MICHELIN GUIDE

Kenji Gyoten’s fighting challenge is to pass on authentic Edomae sushi to later generations. He says encounters with both people and ingredients are once-in-a-lifetime, so he chooses each of the ingredients carefully, and everything he does to the fish makes for a deeper flavour. He seasons long-stored rice with akazu so that it goes with all the toppings. His graceful, stage actor-like movement in the kitchen delights customers.